Details
Originalsprache | Englisch |
---|---|
Aufsatznummer | 107382 |
Seitenumfang | 29 |
Fachzeitschrift | Marine geology |
Jahrgang | 476 |
Frühes Online-Datum | 13 Aug. 2024 |
Publikationsstatus | Veröffentlicht - Okt. 2024 |
Abstract
A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R2: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.
ASJC Scopus Sachgebiete
- Erdkunde und Planetologie (insg.)
- Ozeanographie
- Erdkunde und Planetologie (insg.)
- Geologie
- Erdkunde und Planetologie (insg.)
- Geochemie und Petrologie
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in: Marine geology, Jahrgang 476, 107382, 10.2024.
Publikation: Beitrag in Fachzeitschrift › Artikel › Forschung › Peer-Review
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - Defining an exposure index along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea coast
AU - Dissanayake, Pushpa
AU - Amft, Johanna
AU - Sibbertsen, Philipp
N1 - Publisher Copyright: © 2024 Elsevier B.V.
PY - 2024/10
Y1 - 2024/10
N2 - A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R2: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.
AB - A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R2: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.
KW - Baysian-Information-Criterion
KW - Delft3D
KW - GARMA-POT
KW - GPD
KW - IID
KW - Nearshore hydrodynamics
KW - Numerical modelling
KW - Representative wind year
KW - Statistical analysis
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85201268876&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382
DO - 10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85201268876
VL - 476
JO - Marine geology
JF - Marine geology
SN - 0025-3227
M1 - 107382
ER -